The Concept of the Comfort

くつろぎ コンセプト






Genuine taste.

The taste making everyone smile instantly.

The fresh materials arriving from all over Japan.

Chef who uses all the materials up on the day of the arrival.

Serve with brightness and eagerness for the guests.

What is L’asse?



The base of the Italian cooking is the mothers’ taste. There is no systematization of the Italian cooking, unlike the French and the Japanese cooking. Each family has its own taste which is genuine. At Dal Pescatore where Murayama worked,
the chef and mother Nadia and Grandmother Bruna preside over the kitchen. Homemade pasta or baked sweets are made on a large wooden board named “Asse” usually called “L’asse”.


In Italy the family which runs a restaurant, plants a baby fir tree in the garden, at the birth of a child. The tree grows up with a child, while Asse in the kitchen becomes well-used and indispensable. The child starts learning the taste of grandmother and mother from the infancy. After finishing the school education, and coming back to the home, he is already a skilled cook, full-fledged receiving the deep affection of the family.
The alternation of generation goes with the change of Asse. The Asse working for more than twenty years is worn out, almost finishing its role. It is taken apart, some part becoming a spatula, a bar for drying the pasta or for a box preserving the ravioli.


The remaining part is used as wood for a fireplace in the Christmas season and finishes its role as the giver of warmth to the family. Then the new Asse is made of the fir tree planted at the birth of a child. The alternation of generation is completed. Asse supports the family life and the deep love of mother, which has been handed down from generation to generation.

Succession and transmission



Murayama learned a lot from Nadia Santini of Dal Pescatore. On technique, concept of the cooking and how to approach and treat the materials. The most important thing is to use up the best material of the season in the freshest condition. At Dal Pescatore in the back yard they grow vegetables and take fish from the river near the yard. They keep ducks and chickens and consume their new-laid eggs on that day. At L’asse also, all the vegetables come fresh from the farmers and new-laid eggs of the chickens naturally raised are sent to the kitchen every day. The fish comes directly from Awaji Island and Yaizu. We buy the meat exquisitely aged by the skilled butcher, so that we can extract the very best essence of the taste.


Some guests comment L’asse’s cuisine is like Japanese cuisine, especially the tea-ceremony dishes. That is because we use the best material of Japan. Except the salt and anchovy from Sardinia Island and olive oil from Sicily Island, all the materials are Japanese products. Every day we make butter from the wonderfully flavored fresh cream from Kumamoto, at the last moment before opening the restaurant. The remaining milk butter is made into Ricotta cheese, becoming the ingredient of ravioli. With the last remaining of whey, we boil the vegetables. We do not want to waste any drop of the fresh material. The essence of the Italian cooking inherited from Nadia must be transmitted to the next generation, by pursuing the taste unique to Japan, a country very rich in the seasonal materials.




The interior of the restaurant expresses the beech and the birch woods of Tokamachi, his home town in Niigata Prefecture. Although staying in the middle of the city, the guests could relax just as if they enjoy forest bathing.